Achieving the perfect hair tone is a delicate balance. While toner works wonders to neutralize unwanted brassiness and add shine, it’s crucial to pair it with the correct volume developer to avoid damage and achieve the desired result. Understanding the role of developer and how it interacts with toner is the key to salon-worthy results at home.
Understanding the Basics: Toner and Developer
Toner is a demi-permanent hair color that doesn’t lift your natural hair color. Instead, it deposits color to correct unwanted tones, such as yellow or orange, after bleaching or lightening. It also adds shine and depth. Think of it as the finishing touch to your hair coloring process.
Developer, also known as peroxide, activates the toner. It opens the hair cuticle, allowing the toner to deposit pigment into the hair shaft. The volume of the developer determines the lifting power. A lower volume developer causes minimal lift, while a higher volume developer provides more lift. Using the wrong volume can lead to uneven results, damage, or even color changes you didn’t intend.
The Role of Developer in the Toning Process
Developer’s primary role is to oxidize the toner’s dye molecules, allowing them to penetrate the hair shaft. This oxidation process also slightly swells the hair cuticle, allowing for the toner to deposit color effectively. The volume of the developer directly affects how much the cuticle swells and how deeply the toner penetrates. Too much swelling can cause damage and unwanted lift, while too little may not allow the toner to work effectively.
Decoding Developer Volumes: Which One is Right for You?
Developer comes in various volumes, each with a specific purpose. The most common volumes used with toner are 5, 10, and 20. Understanding their differences is crucial for choosing the right one.
5 Volume Developer: The Gentle Option
5 volume developer is the gentlest option and is often used for deposit-only applications. It barely opens the hair cuticle, making it ideal for situations where you want to add tone without any lifting. It’s the go-to choice for delicate hair or when you’ve already achieved your desired lightness and only need to adjust the tone.
Think of it as a color refresher. It’s perfect for maintaining your existing color or adding a subtle tint without altering the base shade. It’s also a great option for toning already compromised hair, as it minimizes the risk of further damage.
10 Volume Developer: The Most Versatile Choice
10 volume developer is the most commonly used option for toning. It provides a slight lift while depositing color effectively. It’s a versatile choice suitable for most hair types and toning scenarios, especially if you want to slightly adjust your base color.
This volume is effective at opening the hair cuticle enough to deposit the toner pigments properly, ensuring even and long-lasting results. It’s strong enough to handle most toning tasks without causing significant damage. For many, 10 volume is the sweet spot between effectiveness and safety.
20 Volume Developer: Use with Caution
20 volume developer provides more lift than 10 volume. While it can be used with toner, it’s generally not recommended unless you specifically need to lift the hair a level or two while toning. Using 20 volume with toner can easily lead to over-processing, brassiness, or unwanted color changes.
This volume is best reserved for situations where you need to correct significant color imbalances or when your hair is resistant to toning. However, exercise extreme caution and carefully monitor the toning process to avoid damage. It is also not recommended for people with thin or damaged hair.
Factors to Consider When Choosing a Developer Volume
Selecting the right developer volume for your toner isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach. Several factors come into play, including your hair type, the level of lightness, and the desired outcome.
Hair Type and Condition
Fine or damaged hair is more susceptible to damage from higher volume developers. If your hair is already fragile, stick with 5 or 10 volume to minimize the risk of breakage. Thick or coarse hair may tolerate 10 volume developer, but always perform a strand test first to assess the impact. Healthy, virgin hair will generally be able to handle a slightly higher volume than previously damaged hair.
Level of Lightness
The level of lightness you’ve achieved after bleaching significantly impacts your developer choice. If you’ve reached a pale yellow, you’ll likely only need a low-volume developer (5 or 10) to deposit the toner effectively. If your hair is still quite brassy, you might consider 10 volume for a bit of extra lift while toning, though lightening separately might be a better option.
Desired Outcome
What are you trying to achieve with the toner? Are you simply trying to neutralize brassiness, or are you hoping to achieve a significantly different tone? For simple neutralization, a low-volume developer is ideal. If you’re aiming for a drastic color change, you might consider a higher volume, but be prepared for the potential risks.
Previous Hair Treatments
Chemical treatments like perms, relaxers, and previous coloring processes can weaken the hair and make it more susceptible to damage. If your hair has been chemically treated, it’s generally best to err on the side of caution and use a lower volume developer. Overlapping developer on previously treated hair can lead to breakage and uneven color.
How to Perform a Strand Test
Before applying toner and developer to your entire head, always perform a strand test. This simple step can save you from a potentially disastrous outcome.
- Select a small, inconspicuous section of your hair, ideally near the nape of your neck.
- Mix a small amount of toner and developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Apply the mixture to the strand of hair and allow it to process for the recommended time.
- Rinse the strand thoroughly and observe the results.
- If you’re happy with the color and condition of the strand, you can proceed with applying the toner to your entire head. If not, adjust the developer volume or processing time accordingly.
Step-by-Step Guide to Toning Your Hair
Here’s a general step-by-step guide for toning your hair. Remember to always refer to the specific instructions provided with your toner and developer.
- Prepare your workspace: Wear gloves and protect your clothing with an old towel or cape.
- Mix the toner and developer: Combine the toner and developer in a non-metallic bowl according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The ratio is usually 1:2, but always double-check.
- Apply the toner: Apply the toner mixture to your hair, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Ensure even coverage.
- Process the toner: Allow the toner to process for the recommended time, typically 10-30 minutes. Keep a close eye on your hair during processing, and rinse immediately if you notice any unwanted color changes.
- Rinse and condition: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Follow with a moisturizing conditioner to help restore moisture and close the hair cuticle.
- Dry and style: Dry and style your hair as usual.
Troubleshooting Common Toning Issues
Even with careful planning, toning can sometimes go wrong. Here are some common issues and how to address them.
- Toner didn’t work: If the toner didn’t significantly change your hair color, it could be due to several factors, including using too low of a volume developer, not leaving the toner on long enough, or your hair being too resistant to the toner. 10 volume is often the best middle ground.
- Hair turned gray or ashy: This often happens when too much toner is applied or when a toner with strong violet or blue pigments is used on hair that’s already quite light. Using a clarifying shampoo can help remove excess toner.
- Hair became damaged: Over-processing with a high-volume developer can lead to dry, brittle, and damaged hair. Deep conditioning treatments and protein masks can help restore moisture and strength. In extreme cases, a haircut may be necessary to remove damaged ends.
- Uneven toning: Uneven toning can occur if the toner isn’t applied evenly or if some parts of your hair are more porous than others. Applying toner to dry hair and working in small sections can help ensure even coverage.
Caring for Your Toned Hair
After toning your hair, it’s essential to maintain its health and color. Here are some tips for caring for your toned hair:
- Use color-safe shampoo and conditioner: These products are formulated to be gentle on color-treated hair and help prevent fading.
- Avoid washing your hair too frequently: Washing your hair too often can strip away the toner and cause it to fade faster. Try to wash your hair only 2-3 times a week.
- Use heat protectant: Heat styling tools can damage your hair and cause the toner to fade. Always use a heat protectant spray before using a hairdryer, curling iron, or straightener.
- Deep condition regularly: Deep conditioning treatments can help restore moisture and strength to your hair, keeping it healthy and vibrant.
- Avoid chlorine: Chlorine can strip the toner from your hair and cause it to turn brassy. Wear a swim cap when swimming in chlorinated water.
Conclusion: Mastering the Art of Toning
Choosing the right volume developer for your toner is a crucial step in achieving your desired hair color. By understanding the different volumes, considering your hair type and condition, and performing a strand test, you can minimize the risk of damage and achieve salon-worthy results. Remember, 10 volume developer is often the safest and most versatile choice for most toning scenarios. Toning your hair at home can be a rewarding experience. Good luck!
What is a volume developer, and why is it important for toning hair?
Volume developer, also known as peroxide, is a chemical agent used in hair coloring and toning processes to open the hair cuticle, allowing the toner or dye to penetrate the hair shaft. It also activates the color molecules, enabling them to deposit color and create the desired shade. The ‘volume’ refers to the strength of the hydrogen peroxide solution, indicating the amount of oxygen released. Different volumes are used to achieve various levels of lift (lightening) and color deposit.
Choosing the correct volume developer is crucial for achieving the desired toning results. Using a volume that’s too low may not effectively open the cuticle, resulting in minimal color deposit or an uneven tone. Conversely, using a volume that’s too high can cause unnecessary damage to the hair, leading to dryness, breakage, and unwanted lightening. Selecting the appropriate volume ensures the toner deposits color properly without compromising the health and integrity of your hair.
How do I determine the right volume developer for my toning needs?
The selection of the correct volume developer depends primarily on your desired level of toning and the current condition of your hair. If you’re simply aiming to neutralize brassiness or add a subtle tone to already lightened hair, a low volume developer (like 10 volume) is typically sufficient. This volume offers minimal lift and primarily deposits color. However, if you are trying to lift a level or two while toning, or if your hair is resistant to color deposit, a slightly higher volume might be necessary.
It’s always recommended to conduct a strand test before applying toner to your entire head. This test allows you to assess the developer’s effect on your hair’s porosity and color absorption. Observe how the toner processes with the chosen developer volume and adjust accordingly. If the strand test shows the color isn’t depositing effectively, consider using a slightly higher volume, but always prioritize the health and integrity of your hair. If you are unsure, consulting with a professional hair stylist is always a good idea.
What are the differences between 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume developers?
The primary difference between developer volumes lies in their concentration of hydrogen peroxide. A 10 volume developer contains the lowest concentration, providing minimal lift and primarily depositing color. It’s ideal for toning pre-lightened hair or refreshing existing color without significant lightening. A 20 volume developer offers a moderate amount of lift (about one to two levels) and is suitable for covering grey hairs or achieving a slightly lighter shade.
A 30 volume developer provides more significant lift (two to three levels) and is commonly used for lightening hair before applying a toner. It’s often used when transitioning from darker to lighter shades. Finally, a 40 volume developer offers the most lift (three to four levels) and is generally reserved for professional use due to its potential for damage. It is rarely necessary for toning and can easily cause over-processing if used incorrectly. Always consider the existing hair color and desired result before choosing a volume.
Can I use a higher volume developer than recommended to achieve faster results?
While using a higher volume developer might seem like a shortcut to achieving faster and more dramatic results, it’s generally not recommended and can be detrimental to your hair’s health. Higher volume developers contain a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide, which can aggressively open the hair cuticle and cause significant damage, including dryness, breakage, and increased porosity.
Instead of speeding up the process with a higher volume, prioritize the health and integrity of your hair. Consider using a lower volume developer and allowing the toner to process for the recommended time, or even slightly longer, carefully monitoring the results. If you still need more lift or intensity, you can consider a second application of toner with a lower volume developer, rather than risking severe damage with a single application of a high-volume developer. Always perform strand tests to assess the processing speed and avoid unnecessary risks.
What happens if I use the wrong volume developer for my toner?
Using the wrong volume developer can lead to several undesirable outcomes. If the volume is too low, the toner may not effectively penetrate the hair cuticle, resulting in uneven color deposition, a brassy or muddy tone, or simply no noticeable change in color. The toner may appear diluted or not vibrant enough, failing to neutralize unwanted tones or achieve the desired shade.
Conversely, using a volume that is too high can lead to over-processing, causing dryness, breakage, and unwanted lightening. The toner may lift the natural pigment excessively, resulting in a color that is too light or a tone that is not as intended. It can also damage the hair’s protein structure, leaving it brittle and prone to damage. Ultimately, using the incorrect volume developer undermines the effectiveness of the toner and compromises the health and appearance of your hair.
How does hair porosity affect my choice of volume developer?
Hair porosity, which refers to the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture, plays a significant role in determining the appropriate volume developer. Highly porous hair, often characterized by dryness and damage, absorbs color and chemicals quickly. Therefore, it requires a lower volume developer (like 5 or 10 volume) to prevent over-processing and excessive damage. High porosity hair is more susceptible to damage, so gentler processing is key.
Low porosity hair, on the other hand, has a tightly sealed cuticle, making it difficult for color and chemicals to penetrate. This type of hair may require a slightly higher volume developer (like 20 volume) to effectively open the cuticle and allow the toner to deposit color. However, it’s still essential to proceed with caution and monitor the hair closely to avoid over-processing. Strand tests are crucial to determine the optimal processing time and developer volume for your specific hair porosity.
Are there any specific developers formulated to be used with toners?
While standard cream developers can be used with toners, some manufacturers offer developers specifically formulated for use with their toning products. These developers often contain buffering agents or other additives designed to optimize color deposition, minimize damage, and provide a more even and predictable result. They may also be formulated to work at a slightly lower pH, which can be gentler on the hair.
Using a developer specifically designed for a particular toner can often lead to better and more consistent results, as the two products are formulated to work synergistically. Always check the toner manufacturer’s recommendations for the best developer to use. These instructions will typically specify the recommended volume and any specific formulation requirements. If a specific developer isn’t available, choosing a high-quality cream developer with a low volume (10 or 20) is generally a safe approach, especially when toning pre-lightened hair.