The world of hair color can be complex, filled with chemical processes and potential pitfalls. One common question that arises, especially after using permanent hair color, is whether it’s safe and effective to apply toner afterward. The short answer is generally yes, but the nuances are critical to understand to achieve the desired results and avoid damage. This comprehensive guide will explore everything you need to know about using toner over permanent hair color.
Understanding Permanent Hair Color and Toner
Permanent hair color works by opening the hair cuticle and depositing color molecules directly into the hair shaft. This process typically involves ammonia and peroxide, which lighten the natural hair pigment and allow the new color to take hold. It’s a powerful and long-lasting solution for covering grays, drastically changing your hair color, or achieving a vibrant, lasting hue.
Toner, on the other hand, is a semi-permanent hair color that does not penetrate the hair shaft as deeply as permanent color. Instead, it works by depositing color onto the surface of the hair. Its primary purpose is to neutralize unwanted undertones, such as brassiness (orange or yellow tones) in blonde or highlighted hair. Toner can also add shine, depth, and dimension to your existing hair color.
The Role of Undertones
Undertones are the underlying colors that become visible as hair color fades or lightens. They are inherent to your natural hair and skin tone. When you lighten your hair with permanent color, these undertones are often exposed. For example, dark hair typically reveals red or orange undertones when lightened, while lighter hair may reveal yellow tones.
Toner is used to counteract these undertones and achieve a more balanced and desirable color. A blue-based toner, for instance, can neutralize orange tones, while a purple-based toner can neutralize yellow tones. Choosing the right toner depends entirely on the undertones you want to eliminate or enhance.
Why Use Toner After Permanent Hair Color?
Several reasons might lead you to use toner after applying permanent hair color. These reasons often revolve around refining the color and achieving the exact look you desire.
One of the most common reasons is to correct unwanted undertones. Even with the best permanent hair color, undertones can still surface, especially after a few washes. Toner provides a targeted solution to neutralize these tones and create a more polished, salon-worthy finish.
Another reason is to enhance the existing color. Toner can add depth, dimension, and shine to your permanent hair color, making it look more vibrant and multi-faceted. It can also be used to blend highlights or lowlights seamlessly with the base color.
Sometimes, the initial permanent color might not turn out exactly as expected. Perhaps it’s slightly too warm or too cool. Toner can be used to adjust the color and bring it closer to your desired shade.
Common Scenarios for Toning After Permanent Color
Imagine you’ve dyed your hair blonde with permanent color, but it turned out brassy. A purple-based toner will counteract the yellow undertones and give you a cooler, more platinum blonde.
Or, perhaps you’ve dyed your hair a dark brown, but it lacks dimension. A clear toner or one with subtle brown pigments can add shine and depth, making your hair look healthier and more vibrant.
If you’ve used permanent color to cover grays, you might find that the color looks flat and one-dimensional. Toner can add highlights and lowlights to create a more natural and youthful look.
When to Apply Toner After Permanent Color
Timing is crucial when applying toner after permanent hair color. Applying it too soon or too late can affect the outcome.
Ideally, you should wait at least 24-48 hours after applying permanent color before using toner. This allows the permanent color to fully set and prevents any potential chemical reactions between the two products. Washing your hair before applying toner is also recommended to remove any excess dye and prepare the hair for even toner application.
It’s also important to assess the condition of your hair. If your hair feels dry, brittle, or damaged after applying permanent color, it’s best to wait a few days and focus on deep conditioning treatments before using toner. Applying toner to damaged hair can further exacerbate the dryness and lead to breakage.
Assessing Hair Condition Post-Permanent Color
Evaluating your hair’s elasticity and porosity is key. Elasticity refers to your hair’s ability to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. Porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb moisture.
If your hair has low elasticity and high porosity after permanent color, it’s likely damaged and needs extra care before toner application. Use protein treatments to strengthen the hair and moisturizing masks to replenish lost moisture.
Choosing the Right Toner
Selecting the appropriate toner is essential for achieving the desired results. Consider your current hair color, the undertones you want to neutralize, and the overall look you’re aiming for.
For blonde hair, purple or blue-based toners are typically used to neutralize yellow or orange undertones. Green-based toners can be used to counteract red undertones in brunette hair. Clear toners add shine without altering the color.
Consider the level of toner you need. Toners come in different strengths, from light to intense. If you only have slight undertones, a light toner will suffice. For more stubborn undertones, you might need a stronger toner.
Always read the instructions carefully before using any toner. Different toners have different processing times and application methods. Following the instructions will ensure that you achieve the best possible results and avoid any potential damage.
Understanding Toner Levels and Undertones
A level 9 or 10 toner will work best on very light blonde hair, while a level 7 or 8 toner is more suitable for darker blonde or light brown hair.
Remember, blue neutralizes orange, purple neutralizes yellow, and green neutralizes red. Use a color wheel as a guide to understand which toner will best counteract your specific undertones.
Applying Toner Over Permanent Hair Color: A Step-by-Step Guide
Applying toner correctly is crucial for achieving the desired results. This step-by-step guide will walk you through the process.
First, perform a strand test. This involves applying the toner to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to see how it reacts. This will help you avoid any surprises and ensure that you’re happy with the color before applying it to your entire head.
Next, prepare your hair. Wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove any build-up and dry it thoroughly. Apply a barrier cream to your hairline and ears to prevent staining.
Mix the toner according to the instructions. Most toners require mixing with a developer. The developer is a hydrogen peroxide solution that helps to open the hair cuticle and allow the toner to deposit color.
Apply the toner evenly to your hair, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Use a tint brush to ensure that the toner is distributed evenly.
Process the toner for the recommended time. This typically ranges from 10-30 minutes, depending on the toner and the desired results. Check your hair frequently to ensure that it’s not over-processing.
Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Apply a color-safe conditioner to help seal the cuticle and lock in the color.
Dry and style your hair as usual. Admire your newly toned locks!
Tips for Even Toner Application
Work in small sections to ensure that every strand is saturated with toner. Use a mirror to check the back of your head and ensure that you haven’t missed any spots.
If you’re toning your entire head, start at the roots, where the hair is often the most resistant to color. If you’re just toning highlights or specific sections of your hair, apply the toner carefully to those areas only.
Potential Risks and Precautions
While toner is generally safe to use after permanent hair color, there are some potential risks and precautions to keep in mind.
Over-processing is a common risk. Leaving the toner on for too long can result in unwanted color changes or damage to your hair. Always follow the instructions carefully and check your hair frequently during processing.
Allergic reactions are also possible. Perform a patch test before using any toner to check for sensitivities. Apply a small amount of toner to your skin and wait 24-48 hours to see if you develop any redness, itching, or swelling.
Dryness and damage can occur if your hair is already damaged or if you use a toner that’s too strong. Use a deep conditioning treatment after toning to replenish moisture and protect your hair.
Avoiding Toner-Related Hair Damage
Use a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) to minimize damage. Avoid using heat on your hair immediately after toning, as this can further dry it out.
Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners to help prolong the life of your toner and protect your hair from damage.
Maintaining Your Toned Hair
Maintaining your toned hair requires proper care and attention. Here are some tips to help you keep your color looking fresh and vibrant.
Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners. These products are formulated to be gentle on color-treated hair and will help to prevent fading.
Avoid washing your hair too frequently. Washing your hair too often can strip away the toner and cause your color to fade faster.
Protect your hair from the sun. The sun’s UV rays can damage your hair and cause your color to fade. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time outdoors.
Use a toner gloss or color-depositing conditioner to refresh your color between toning sessions. These products can help to maintain the tone and vibrancy of your hair.
Extending the Life of Your Toner
Consider using a dry shampoo between washes to absorb excess oil and keep your hair looking clean. Avoid using hot water when washing your hair, as this can cause the color to fade faster. Rinse with cool water instead.
When to Seek Professional Help
While it’s possible to tone your hair at home, there are certain situations where it’s best to seek professional help.
If you’re unsure about which toner to use or how to apply it correctly, a professional hairstylist can provide expert advice and guidance.
If you’ve experienced previous allergic reactions to hair color products, it’s best to have a professional perform a patch test and apply the toner for you.
If your hair is severely damaged or if you’re trying to make a drastic color change, a professional hairstylist can ensure that the process is done safely and effectively.
The Value of Professional Hair Color Services
A professional hairstylist has the experience and expertise to assess your hair’s condition, choose the right toner, and apply it correctly to achieve the desired results. They can also provide advice on how to care for your toned hair and prevent damage. Ultimately, while DIY is tempting, a professional can often save you from costly mistakes and ensure the health of your hair.
Can I apply toner immediately after coloring my hair with permanent dye?
Generally, it’s best to wait a few days after using permanent hair color before applying toner. The permanent dye initially deposits the base color and continues to process for a short period. Adding toner too soon could potentially interfere with the permanent color’s development or even create unpredictable results due to the overlapping chemical processes.
Waiting allows the hair’s cuticle to settle down after the initial coloring process. This creates a smoother surface for the toner to adhere to and ensures a more even and predictable color deposit. Furthermore, you’ll be able to accurately assess the underlying tones of your hair after the permanent color has fully developed, which helps in choosing the correct toner shade for desired results.
What happens if I use toner on freshly colored hair?
Applying toner immediately after permanent hair color can lead to uneven color distribution. The permanent color may still be settling and reacting, so the toner might not take evenly across the hair shaft. This could result in patchy or inconsistent tones, especially if the underlying color is not fully neutralized or if there are variations in porosity.
There’s also a risk of over-processing the hair. Both permanent dye and toner involve chemical processes that can be damaging if applied too closely together. Overlapping these processes can weaken the hair, leading to dryness, breakage, and increased sensitivity. Therefore, spacing out these treatments is crucial for maintaining hair health.
How long should I wait to use toner after permanent hair color?
A waiting period of at least 2-3 days is typically recommended between applying permanent hair color and toner. This allows the permanent color to fully oxidize and settle into the hair shaft. It also gives you time to properly assess the color and identify any areas that need toning.
During this waiting period, focus on hydrating your hair with deep conditioning treatments. This will help to restore moisture lost during the permanent coloring process and prepare your hair for the toner application. Additionally, avoid washing your hair too frequently, as this can strip the color and make it more difficult for the toner to adhere properly.
Will toner change the shade of my permanent hair color?
Toner is designed to neutralize unwanted undertones and refine the shade of your hair, not to drastically change the overall color. While it can influence the final result, it primarily works to correct brassiness, yellow tones, or other unwanted hues that may be present after the permanent color process. It will not lighten or significantly darken your hair.
The key is to choose a toner that complements your permanent hair color and targets the specific undertones you want to address. For example, if you have brassy tones, a purple or blue-based toner can help neutralize them. If you desire a warmer shade, a gold or copper-toned toner could be more suitable. Always perform a strand test to ensure the toner achieves the desired effect without altering the base color in an undesirable way.
Can I use a demi-permanent toner over permanent hair color?
Yes, demi-permanent toners are generally considered safe to use over permanent hair color, as they are less damaging and contain a lower volume developer. Demi-permanent toners primarily deposit color and add shine, making them ideal for refining the tone of your hair without significantly altering the underlying color.
When selecting a demi-permanent toner, choose a shade that complements your permanent hair color and addresses any unwanted undertones. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and perform a strand test to ensure the desired result. Demi-permanent toners are a good option for maintaining and enhancing your permanent color between full color applications.
How do I choose the right toner for my hair after using permanent hair color?
First, identify the specific undertones you want to neutralize or enhance. Is your hair too brassy, yellow, or ashy? Understanding the underlying tones will guide you in selecting the correct toner shade. Purple toners neutralize yellow, blue toners neutralize orange, and green toners neutralize red tones.
Consider your desired overall tone and intensity. Do you want a cool, neutral, or warm result? If you are unsure, consult with a professional stylist who can assess your hair and recommend the best toner for your specific needs. Always perform a strand test before applying the toner to your entire head to ensure you achieve the desired color without any unexpected results.
What are the risks of using toner over permanent hair color?
Overlapping chemical processes, even with lower volume developers, can lead to over-processing and damage. This can manifest as dry, brittle, and breakage-prone hair. It’s crucial to wait a suitable period between treatments and prioritize deep conditioning to replenish lost moisture.
Incorrect toner selection or application can result in undesirable color outcomes, such as overly ashy or muddy tones. Always conduct a strand test to preview the result. Furthermore, if you have sensitive skin or a history of allergic reactions to hair dye, perform a patch test before applying the toner to your entire head. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.