Corduroy, with its distinctive wales (the raised ribs), is a fabric that adds texture and warmth to any project. However, sewing with corduroy can present unique challenges. Proper preparation is key to achieving a professional-looking finished product. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step, from pre-washing to nap direction, ensuring your corduroy sewing project is a success.
Understanding Corduroy Fabric
Before diving into the preparation process, it’s helpful to understand what makes corduroy unique. Corduroy is typically made from cotton, but it can also be blended with other fibers like polyester or spandex. The wales, which run lengthwise along the fabric, are formed by extra weft threads woven into the base fabric and then cut to create the ribbed texture.
The width of the wales is described by a number, such as 11-wale corduroy. A higher number indicates finer wales, while a lower number signifies wider wales. The wale count affects the fabric’s drape, texture, and overall appearance.
The direction of the nap, or the way the wales lie, is also crucial to consider when working with corduroy. Running your hand across the fabric will reveal the nap direction; it feels smooth in one direction and rougher in the other. This “nap” affects the fabric’s color and how it reflects light.
Pre-Washing and Drying Corduroy
One of the most crucial steps in preparing any fabric for sewing, especially corduroy, is pre-washing. This step is essential to prevent shrinkage after your project is completed. Corduroy tends to shrink more than other fabrics, making pre-washing particularly important.
Washing Instructions
Always wash your corduroy fabric before cutting and sewing. Use the same washing and drying method you intend to use for the finished garment. This ensures the fabric shrinks consistently.
For most corduroy fabrics, a gentle cycle in cold or lukewarm water is recommended. Avoid using hot water, as it can cause excessive shrinkage and fading. Use a mild detergent that is safe for colored fabrics.
Consider adding a cup of white vinegar to the wash to help set the color and prevent fading. This is especially important for darker-colored corduroy.
Drying Techniques
Drying corduroy can be a bit tricky. High heat can damage the wales and cause the fabric to shrink excessively. The best approach is to either air dry the fabric or use a low heat setting in your dryer.
If using a dryer, remove the fabric while it is still slightly damp and hang it to finish drying. This helps to minimize wrinkles and maintain the shape of the wales.
Air drying corduroy can be done by laying it flat on a clean surface or hanging it on a clothesline. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can fade the color of the fabric.
Never tumble dry corduroy on high heat. This can cause the wales to flatten and lose their texture.
Identifying and Considering Nap Direction
As previously mentioned, the nap direction of corduroy plays a significant role in the fabric’s appearance. Identifying and consistently using the nap direction is critical for a professional-looking finished garment.
Determining Nap Direction
To determine the nap direction, simply run your hand along the surface of the fabric. The direction that feels smooth is the direction of the nap. The direction that feels rougher is against the nap.
The nap direction affects how the fabric reflects light and, consequently, its color. Fabric cut with the nap running “up” will appear darker and richer in color. Fabric cut with the nap running “down” will appear lighter and reflect more light.
Consistent Nap Direction
Always cut all pattern pieces in the same nap direction. This is essential for ensuring consistent color and texture throughout the finished garment. If pattern pieces are cut in different nap directions, the garment will appear mismatched and unprofessional.
Most patterns will indicate the recommended nap direction. Pay close attention to these markings and carefully align your pattern pieces accordingly.
If you are unsure which nap direction to use, consider how the finished garment will be worn. For example, if you are making pants, cutting the fabric with the nap running down will prevent the seat of the pants from becoming shiny over time.
Cutting Corduroy Fabric
Cutting corduroy requires precision and attention to detail. The wales can shift and move during cutting, making it challenging to achieve accurate cuts.
Preparing to Cut
Before cutting, ensure your fabric is lying flat on a smooth, stable surface. Use a large cutting mat and sharp rotary cutter or fabric scissors.
Pin the pattern pieces securely to the fabric, paying close attention to the grainline and nap direction. Use plenty of pins to prevent the fabric from shifting.
Consider using a walking foot on your sewing machine. A walking foot helps to feed the fabric evenly, preventing the top layer from shifting relative to the bottom layer.
Cutting Techniques
When cutting corduroy, use a slow and steady motion. Avoid jerking or pulling the fabric, as this can distort the wales.
If using a rotary cutter, use a sharp blade and apply even pressure. Make multiple passes if necessary, rather than trying to cut through the fabric in a single pass.
If using fabric scissors, use long, smooth cuts. Avoid using short, choppy cuts, as this can create jagged edges.
Double-check the nap direction before cutting each pattern piece. It’s easy to accidentally cut a piece in the wrong direction, so take your time and be meticulous.
Seam Finishing Techniques for Corduroy
Corduroy tends to fray easily, so proper seam finishing is essential for preventing unraveling and creating a durable garment.
Seam Finishing Options
Several seam finishing options are suitable for corduroy, including serging, zigzag stitching, and binding. The best option will depend on the fabric’s weight and the desired aesthetic.
Serging is a popular choice for corduroy because it quickly and efficiently encloses the raw edges of the fabric. A serger creates a clean, professional finish that prevents fraying.
Zigzag stitching is a simple and effective way to finish seams if you don’t have a serger. Simply stitch along the raw edge of the fabric with a zigzag stitch to prevent unraveling.
Binding involves encasing the raw edge of the fabric with a strip of fabric, such as bias tape. This creates a clean and durable finish that can also add a decorative element to your garment.
Choosing the Right Technique
For lightweight corduroy, a simple zigzag stitch or serged edge may be sufficient. For heavier corduroy, binding or a more elaborate seam finish may be necessary to prevent fraying and ensure durability.
Always test your seam finishing technique on a scrap of fabric before applying it to your garment. This will allow you to adjust the settings on your sewing machine and ensure you are achieving the desired result.
Pressing Corduroy Effectively
Pressing is an important part of the sewing process, but it can be tricky with corduroy. The wales can be easily crushed, resulting in a flattened and uneven surface.
Protecting the Wales
The key to pressing corduroy effectively is to protect the wales from being crushed. This can be achieved by using a pressing cloth or a needle board.
A pressing cloth is a piece of fabric that is placed between the iron and the corduroy fabric. This helps to distribute the heat evenly and prevent the wales from being flattened.
A needle board is a special type of pressing surface that is covered in rows of fine needles. The needles support the wales and prevent them from being crushed during pressing.
Pressing Techniques
When pressing corduroy, use a low to medium heat setting on your iron. Avoid using steam, as it can cause the fabric to shrink or distort.
Use a gentle, lifting motion when pressing. Avoid pressing down hard on the fabric, as this can crush the wales.
Press the fabric on the wrong side whenever possible. This will help to protect the wales and prevent them from being damaged.
Always test your pressing technique on a scrap of fabric before pressing your garment. This will allow you to adjust the heat setting and ensure you are not damaging the fabric.
Needles, Thread, and Stitch Length
Selecting the correct needle, thread, and stitch length is essential for achieving professional results when sewing corduroy.
Needle Selection
A universal needle or a denim needle is generally recommended for sewing corduroy. The size of the needle will depend on the weight of the fabric. For lightweight corduroy, a size 70/10 or 80/12 needle may be sufficient. For heavier corduroy, a size 90/14 or 100/16 needle may be necessary.
Always use a sharp needle to prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage. Change your needle regularly to ensure optimal performance.
Thread Choice
A good quality cotton or polyester thread is suitable for sewing corduroy. Choose a thread color that matches the fabric as closely as possible.
Test the thread on a scrap of fabric before sewing your garment. This will allow you to check the color match and ensure the thread is compatible with the fabric.
Stitch Length Adjustment
A slightly longer stitch length is generally recommended for sewing corduroy. A stitch length of 2.5 to 3.0 mm is usually appropriate.
A longer stitch length allows the fabric to move more freely and prevents the seams from puckering.
Experiment with different stitch lengths on a scrap of fabric to find the optimal setting for your machine and fabric.
Dealing with Bulk and Thickness
Corduroy can be bulky, especially at seams and hems. Proper techniques are needed to manage this thickness for a clean finish.
Grading Seams
Grading seams involves trimming the seam allowances to different widths. This reduces bulk and creates a smoother finish.
Trim the seam allowance closest to the garment’s outer layer to about 1/4 inch. Trim the remaining seam allowance to about 3/8 inch.
This staggering of the seam allowances reduces bulk and prevents the seam from being visible from the right side of the garment.
Clipping and Notching Curves
Clipping and notching are techniques used to reduce bulk and allow curved seams to lie flat. Clipping involves making small cuts into the seam allowance on inward curves. Notching involves removing small wedges of fabric from the seam allowance on outward curves.
Be careful not to cut through the stitching when clipping or notching.
Understitching
Understitching involves stitching the facing or lining to the seam allowance. This helps to prevent the facing or lining from rolling to the outside of the garment.
Understitch close to the seam line, catching both the facing or lining and the seam allowance.
Special Considerations for Corduroy Projects
Certain corduroy projects require specific considerations.
Working with Stretch Corduroy
Stretch corduroy contains a small amount of elastane, offering greater flexibility and comfort. When working with stretch corduroy, use a ballpoint needle to avoid damaging the fibers. A walking foot can also be helpful to prevent stretching the fabric during sewing. Avoid overstretching the fabric while sewing and use a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch to allow for movement.
Pattern Adjustments
Consider pattern adjustments for corduroy, especially if you are using a pattern designed for a different type of fabric. Corduroy can be thicker than other fabrics, so you may need to add extra seam allowance or adjust the fit of the pattern. Always make a muslin or test garment before cutting into your final fabric.
Interfacing
Choose interfacing carefully. Depending on the garment you are constructing, you may need to use interfacing to add structure and support. Select a lightweight interfacing that is compatible with the weight of your corduroy fabric. Test the interfacing on a scrap of fabric to ensure it doesn’t change the fabric’s appearance or hand.
Preparing corduroy for sewing is a multifaceted process. By taking the time to pre-wash, identify the nap, cut accurately, finish seams, and press effectively, you can ensure your corduroy sewing projects are beautiful, durable, and professionally finished. Remember to always test your techniques on a scrap of fabric and adjust as needed. Happy sewing!
Why is pre-washing corduroy so important before sewing?
Pre-washing corduroy is crucial because it helps prevent shrinkage and color bleeding after your project is complete. Corduroy, being a natural fiber (often cotton), is prone to shrinking during the first wash. By pre-washing, you’re essentially “getting the shrinkage out of the way” before you cut and sew your fabric, ensuring your finished garment or item maintains its intended size and shape. Additionally, pre-washing removes any excess dye that might bleed during future washes, protecting other items you wash with your corduroy project.
Ignoring this step can lead to disappointment after your carefully crafted creation is laundered. The garment might become too small, or the dye could transfer to other clothes, ruining them. Pre-washing allows you to work with a fabric that has already gone through its initial shrinkage and dye release, guaranteeing a more predictable and satisfying outcome in the long run.
What’s the best way to determine the nap direction of corduroy?
Identifying the nap direction of corduroy is key for achieving a consistent look in your finished project. The nap refers to the direction in which the pile of the corduroy fabric lies. To find it, simply run your hand over the fabric. It will feel smoother in one direction and slightly rougher in the other. The smoother direction is usually considered “down” the nap.
Consistency is paramount. If you cut some pattern pieces with the nap going up and others with it going down, you’ll notice a distinct difference in the fabric’s appearance. The color will appear slightly different, creating an unwanted patchwork effect. Most patterns will specify the nap direction to follow.
How do you best cut corduroy fabric to avoid fraying?
To minimize fraying when cutting corduroy, use sharp rotary cutters or fabric scissors and cut on a flat, stable surface. Consider using a self-healing cutting mat with a rotary cutter for the most precise and clean cuts. Cutting in a single, deliberate motion rather than short, choppy strokes also helps to prevent pulling at the individual cords.
Another helpful technique involves using a stabilizing spray or applying a thin line of fabric glue along the cutting edges before cutting. This will help to bind the fibers together and reduce fraying. If you’re using scissors, ensure they are sharp and that you’re cutting through the fabric in a continuous, smooth motion.
What type of needle should I use when sewing corduroy?
When sewing corduroy, a universal or denim needle in a size 80/12 or 90/14 is typically recommended. The heavier weight of corduroy requires a stronger needle that can penetrate the multiple layers of fabric without breaking or skipping stitches. A denim needle is especially useful for thicker corduroy as it is designed to pierce through dense materials.
Using the correct needle size also helps prevent damage to the fabric itself. A needle that is too fine might break or cause the fabric to pucker, while a needle that is too large can leave visible holes. Testing different needle sizes on a scrap of your corduroy fabric is always a good idea to determine which needle performs best with your specific material.
What stitch length and tension adjustments are recommended for sewing corduroy?
A slightly longer stitch length, typically between 2.5mm and 3.0mm, is recommended when sewing corduroy. This allows for more flexibility in the seams and prevents the stitches from getting lost in the texture of the fabric. A shorter stitch length can sometimes cause the fabric to pucker or create a stiff seam.
Adjusting the tension on your sewing machine is also essential. Corduroy can be thick, so a slightly looser tension might be necessary to prevent the thread from breaking or pulling the fabric. Test the tension on a scrap piece of corduroy before sewing your final project to ensure the stitches are balanced and even on both sides of the fabric.
How can I prevent crushing the pile of corduroy when pressing?
Preventing the pile of corduroy from being crushed during pressing is vital to maintaining its texture and appearance. The best method is to use a needle board or a thick towel as a pressing surface. Place the corduroy face down onto the needles or the towel, ensuring the pile has space to nestle without being flattened. This allows you to press the back of the fabric without directly compressing the pile.
Another helpful technique is to use a pressing cloth and a steam iron on a low to medium setting. Avoid pressing directly onto the right side of the fabric unless absolutely necessary. If you must press the right side, use a thick pressing cloth and lift the iron frequently instead of gliding it across the surface. This minimizes the risk of crushing the pile and preserves the fabric’s unique texture.
How do I best handle bulky seams when working with corduroy?
Bulky seams are a common challenge when sewing with corduroy due to its thickness. To mitigate this, trim the seam allowances after sewing, grading the layers to reduce bulk. Grading involves trimming each layer of the seam allowance to a different width, preventing a thick ridge from forming.
Another effective method is to press the seams open or to one side, depending on the pattern instructions, and then topstitch along the seam allowance to flatten it and secure the layers in place. Topstitching not only helps to reduce bulk but also adds a decorative element to your project. Consider using a slightly longer stitch length for topstitching to create a more professional and durable finish.